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Old 03-30-2017, 06:15 AM   #251
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Why stop there? Just build a dry sump setup!
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because when he's wheeling he's a perfectly normal person then a switch gets flipped and Jeeps start flying.
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Old 04-03-2017, 10:32 AM   #252
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this is what i want my version of this '55 to start out life as. same truck.. just the body style before. same build. 12 valve. 5/6 speed. dana 80/14 bolt. bagged. etc.

so i'll be re reading this build to get the front end worked out for 8 lug rims.. hahah
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what the f**k is this bulls**t?!?!?! This is inexcusably unacceptable!

f**k that s**tbox, kill it with fire.
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Old 04-03-2017, 10:07 PM   #253
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https://charlotte.craigslist.org/cto/6071660852.html

could have skipped a lot of work and just shipped it to you..
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Old 04-04-2017, 06:06 AM   #254
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not exactly how i'd build it, and more than i'll have in it, but closer than anything else i've seen before.

i like the 2nd gen better myself, but i agree that a big-bolt would be the best place to start. if i had originally intended this truck for a Cummins, i'd have held out for one.
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GMC: DD/Tow rig- 2008 2500HD
CJ-2A: Rat Rod- some day

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Quote:
Originally Posted by wrath
because when he's wheeling he's a perfectly normal person then a switch gets flipped and Jeeps start flying.
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Old 04-04-2017, 06:20 AM   #255
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i just love the way the big fenders and split windshield look. that, slammed to the ground. no bed and nicely put together displayed driveline would be the cool part. there is a tenn. company that machines down 22.5" alcoas to 22s so you can run lower profile pick up tires on them.. that look is just mean. patina'd body. exposed gloss black frame. reefer truck fuel tank. detailed fuel and brake lines. perfectly done interior. would make a for a sweet ride.

didn't see what your plans for the body were.. but from i remember it was damn near perfectly preserved. hope you keep it as such and just slap it back on with reworked interior.
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Old 04-04-2017, 11:51 AM   #256
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i just love the way the big fenders and split windshield look. that, slammed to the ground. no bed and nicely put together displayed driveline would be the cool part. there is a tenn. company that machines down 22.5" alcoas to 22s so you can run lower profile pick up tires on them.. that look is just mean. patina'd body. exposed gloss black frame. reefer truck fuel tank. detailed fuel and brake lines. perfectly done interior. would make a for a sweet ride.

didn't see what your plans for the body were.. but from i remember it was damn near perfectly preserved. hope you keep it as such and just slap it back on with reworked interior.
i was kinda torn at first about the show presentation vs full function bed ... and the function won out. maybe i should do a tilt bed?

i looked into the machined 22.5s, but they aren't cheap. however if the 17's i want won't let me narrow the front end enough to fit inside the fenders, the 22's will for sure.

the body i do plan to keep as much bone stock as-is as i can ... just clean, clear, and bolt it on. the inside and under will get fully painted and "restored" though. biggest thing is making the bed slightly wider to fit the duals, i'll need to splice a pair of new headers together and probably a tailgate too. my rear axle is as narrow as possible, so should be a few inches per side narrower than the add you linked up.

rear is the same either way, and between building the C-10 IFS and the ram 2500 IFS, the only real advantage to the c10 was that the x-member is bolt in so you could build it on the bench vs on the frame. there are WAY more brake/control arm options for the c10 though. if going Cummins again, i'd build it with a ram chassis again since it's already done ... if going some other engine, i'd probably go c10
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Quote:
Originally Posted by wrath
because when he's wheeling he's a perfectly normal person then a switch gets flipped and Jeeps start flying.

Last edited by 6DoF; 04-04-2017 at 11:54 AM.
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Old 04-04-2017, 07:19 PM   #257
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tilt bed would be slick. and to get ideas for a bed, check out " '57 2 ton shop truck" online. it should give you an idea of what you may need and some cool touches to go along with it (i'm fairly certain that's the google search..)

tilt bed would be awesome. and i'll definitely go about checking out the C10 vs ram setup. i'm still going to have to go from 8 lug to 10 to fit the alcoas.. so whichever is easier for an engine install will get the go ahead (when the time comes..)
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f**k that s**tbox, kill it with fire.
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Old 04-05-2017, 06:45 AM   #258
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i've seen that truck, and is part of why i'm doing what i'm doing. i just don't like the extra wide fenders to leave the bed sides where they are.
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because when he's wheeling he's a perfectly normal person then a switch gets flipped and Jeeps start flying.
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Old 04-05-2017, 06:18 PM   #259
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understandable. i guess it all depends on what you're/he was going for. as just a drive around truck.. that thing is cool. if you're going to put it to work even alittle.. more functional bed/fenders are in order
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Old 04-06-2017, 06:24 AM   #260
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i actually tried to buy this truck 3-4 years ago when i first found it, but they "were starting the restoration and i should check back for updates on the website soon" it's not actually for sale, just a website draw. it's pretty damn close to exactly the body i want, but no way i'm undertaking the cab extension. the bed width is about the max i'm going for and why i have a SRW axle to start with for keeping it as narrow as possible. i have to have a wheel adapter to run hub centric wheels i need, so i will just shave them down as much as possible. i also don't like that they are running the stock bedside running boards as-is, just looks not good against the cab.

http://www.kroubetz.com/show-invento...es.php?id=p6Ov

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because when he's wheeling he's a perfectly normal person then a switch gets flipped and Jeeps start flying.
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Old 04-06-2017, 06:34 AM   #261
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so.. whacking the bed steps off? that'll look clean. what wheel adapters do you have to get? and i know they are super rare.. but chevy did make some crew cab square bodies with cab and chassis frames that had a dually rear end tucked up under a regular width bed..
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Old 04-06-2017, 07:00 AM   #262
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i don't want or need a 4dr or the old 3x3, i just need some extra room to move the seat back and recline the back. the '55 is made to sit straight up with very bent knees.

i haven't yet figure out exactly what i'll be doing with the steps, i just know i will have them and it won't be that. the drivers side is the only one that needs to meet the cab though, the pass side will be cut back to let the exhaust out. plan is to run 4" directly outside the frame where there is lots of room under the cab, then poke it out at a 90 right behind the cab. the step will then follow behind it to the fender.
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because when he's wheeling he's a perfectly normal person then a switch gets flipped and Jeeps start flying.
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Old 04-06-2017, 07:08 PM   #263
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i was really just talking about the axles that they put under the rear of some of those trucks. dually 14 bolt the width of a regular truck bed.

but i feel you on the very upright position they have you in. my 1st gen dodge is almost that bad with the buckets in it.

are you going to have a stack, or will it simply be a square end of 4" pipe out the side?

i think some sort of 1.5" tubing would be neat for the steps. and you can duplicate the same curve on both sides, just have one come to the cab and the other up close to the exhaust.

we did the exact same thing on my kaiser (exhaust routing wise) outside the frame rail and up behind the 'thru box' under the bed. we got a gallon of lizard skin for head shielding the bottom of the truck. it did the pass side where the exhaust runs like 6-8 times (both under the truck and on the firewall at the back of the turbo) trans tunnel 4-6 times. drivers side maybe 2 times. and the firewall. and under the hood. it was more than enough to do what we wanted so hopefully it proves it's worth. we also did a SS heat shield under the pass seat to give another layer of heat deflection.
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Old 04-07-2017, 05:50 AM   #264
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ooo, i am very interested to hear an update on what you think of the lizard skin! i was thinking of doing the heat shield under the truck, and the sound dampener inside.

i might embellish the cut-off, but no stacks and just dump out low.
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CJ-2A: Rat Rod- some day

Past
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Quote:
Originally Posted by wrath
because when he's wheeling he's a perfectly normal person then a switch gets flipped and Jeeps start flying.
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Old 04-07-2017, 06:16 AM   #265
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we just did a test of it in the yard with a piece of the trans cover. had the lizard part facing the sun during the summer. it was up once 130* on the surface. the 'inside' was just over the ambient temperature. it seemed seemed to do quite well. and that was just a small piece (2.5 sq ft or so) if you're concerned about the heat, BOOM mat is some awesome stuff. it's basically dimpled aluminum foil backed with fiberglass and adhesion that is good to something like 1200* direct heat. we didn't do that bc of the lizard skin, but my buddy with an IH scout was having trans heat issues on the tunnel. tossed some of that above it and its no longer and issue.

the sound dampener.. i know dyna mat is the way ppl say go, but i used this stuff called hush mat on my 1st gen and i swear it was easier to work with and was alittle but cheaper. (not like half or anything.. maybe got another 5 or so sq ft) and is all black. no writing. made a world of difference in my 1st gen, and all i did was the floor. i would definitely recommend doing the inside of the dash and (console?) if you have one. along with interior of the doors. amazing how far alittle of that stuff goes. up the firewall as far as you can take it before the dash goes on will help that clanky 12v sound alittle more calm. but doesn't take away from turbo spool.
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Old 04-07-2017, 07:00 AM   #266
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my hope is to use the lizardskin inside like a bed-lining or "rubber floor" with no carpet or whatever to go over the stick down mats. not saying i would never put a basic carpet in, but i don't think i need that.

i had intended to do the firewall, but you said the hood too ... that seams like some sound coating under the hood could be huge for this motor. once i get the floor and firewall all back together around the engine/trans, i want to pull the cab to really coat under it. i had planned to make under the hood all clean and painted as well, so you might be on to something. if it works well, i'll probably pull the TJ tub and do under it too.
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because when he's wheeling he's a perfectly normal person then a switch gets flipped and Jeeps start flying.
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Old 04-07-2017, 07:17 AM   #267
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i'll see if i can dig up some pics of it under the hood. it really cleans it up. a lot.

i would steer clear of it for the interior.. it has a more gnarled texture than what i would want in the cab just for cleaning out purposes. for that we went with raptor liner so we could get a smoother finish for clean out. i just knew thst it wasn't going to be quiet with no carpet.. so we coated it all in hopes of sound and heat shielding (which it makes a noticeable difference with the hood closed compared to open) paint the inner fenders or leave them patina'd, but finish the hood and fire wall with the lizard skin.

i'll see if i can find some pics..
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what the f**k is this bulls**t?!?!?! This is inexcusably unacceptable!

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Old 05-12-2017, 05:45 AM   #268
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transmission x-member that doesn't hit the ground and will actually bolt to the NV5600. paint tonight, then back in to hold the trans. at that point i have to tear down the '55 body and get it ready to set on this frame

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because when he's wheeling he's a perfectly normal person then a switch gets flipped and Jeeps start flying.
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Old 05-12-2017, 06:08 PM   #269
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Nice. I predict stuff collecting in those open tubes. Do you have plans to cap those? They're pretty short so maybe it won't be an issue?
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Old 05-12-2017, 08:58 PM   #270
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Nice. I predict stuff collecting in those open tubes. Do you have plans to cap those? They're pretty short so maybe it won't be an issue?
i noticed the same thing. figured they'd get chopped off and cleaned up before paint..?
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what the f**k is this bulls**t?!?!?! This is inexcusably unacceptable!

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Old 05-12-2017, 10:09 PM   #271
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i noticed the same thing. figured they'd get chopped off and cleaned up before paint..?
With the way he cut then i assumed they were getting more pipes welded on, possibly for exhaust or gas tank hangers? Driveshaft loop?
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Old 05-15-2017, 05:54 AM   #272
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nope, simply notched for her pleasure.
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Quote:
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because when he's wheeling he's a perfectly normal person then a switch gets flipped and Jeeps start flying.
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Old 05-31-2017, 10:36 PM   #273
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srsly though.. where's the pics??
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Old 06-01-2017, 06:11 AM   #274
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been back and forth working on a few different things as always ... but the '55 is back in the shed for real work! i have a fire-n-beer night planned June 10th (anyone welcome to come) and the plan is to move the cab over onto the new chassis before we turn it up for the night. i had been pushing this build as much as "an art project" as functional, but i think i'm going to turn it more function now. i can still get the cab 0.5" off the ground, but if i move it up 3" i can clear this huge trans with the factory tunnel cover. that also gives me more bed depth, and better tire clearance for an easier size to find. it also looks like i might end up having to move the 6BT back in the frame a few inches to have room for a rad, we'll see.




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Old 06-01-2017, 07:03 AM   #275
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if you're looking for input, i'd say push the truck further up off the ground to avoid another 1-2 weeks of tunnel fabbing and having to deal with that down the road. (seats/console/legroom. etc.) and, i think you could easily make up that 2.5" (if i read that right) with some running boards.. to give it that 'on the ground' look you're going for. but either way, unless it's parked on a table top, 3" isn't that bad. especially on a large cab truck like that one. anything in grass or even gravel will look awesome.
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Old 06-01-2017, 08:12 AM   #276
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Just like your wife said, 3 inches is enough.
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Old 06-01-2017, 10:19 AM   #277
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all my previous posts' intentions were to set you up to make that comment.
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Old 06-01-2017, 11:23 AM   #278
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Quote:
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, unless it's parked on a table top, 3" isn't that bad. especially on a large cab truck like that one. anything in grass or even gravel will look awesome.
agreed
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CJ-2A: Rat Rod- some day

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Quote:
Originally Posted by wrath
because when he's wheeling he's a perfectly normal person then a switch gets flipped and Jeeps start flying.
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Old 06-08-2017, 05:47 AM   #279
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ok, cab mounts are placed. this Saturday the cab goes on!! still need to add some gussets on the front mounts to the top of the frame and trim up the bottom corners of the rears, plus an exorbitant amount of welding.

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TJ: DD/street rod- 2" & high line, 6.0L/NV4500/D300, 37's
GMC: DD/Tow rig- 2008 2500HD
CJ-2A: Rat Rod- some day

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because when he's wheeling he's a perfectly normal person then a switch gets flipped and Jeeps start flying.
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Old 06-08-2017, 06:13 AM   #280
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if/when i go for that big bolt chevy tow rig, i'm going to need you to link me your front end. may or may not go bags, but i'll definitely need the 8lug swap. looks amazing. can't wait to see the cab on there and some engine noise.

what are you/have you thought about gauges at all?
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Old 06-08-2017, 12:13 PM   #281
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i have a ton of pics of the C10 IFS i did before doing this dodge IFS. would be super easy to duplicate, just let me know and i can walk ya thru it. baggs weren't super cheap, but the mods were virtually free. only issue with that IFS on a GM truck, is the x-member hangs so much lower than the body. if you want to truly drop it out, you have to Z the frame. but i was getting like 12" of travel, so plenty of clearance still. this dodge ifs was easier in some ways and harder in others, but still worked out ok. my only complaint is travel, i'm only getting about 9". part of that is the weight though, i might be running these things are full PSI normally ... if that's the case, i'll have to move them outboard or get bigger bags.

gauges i know exactly what i'm getting. no question. i want to monitor EVERYTHING under the sun (PSI between the turbo's, air temp before and after the intercooler, air system at every corner, etc) but i don't want gauges everywhere. so this gauge set will take every signal, settable limits and warnings, and is sexy. plus a TON of add-ons to control lights, fans, and anything else.

http://www.dakotadigital.com/index.c...od/prd1037.htm
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TJ: DD/street rod- 2" & high line, 6.0L/NV4500/D300, 37's
GMC: DD/Tow rig- 2008 2500HD
CJ-2A: Rat Rod- some day

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XJ's: - CheepBlue, Skunked, Dan's
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Quote:
Originally Posted by wrath
because when he's wheeling he's a perfectly normal person then a switch gets flipped and Jeeps start flying.
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Old 06-08-2017, 08:45 PM   #282
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that'll be awesome. and yes, pics will be great.

now.. i think it's safe to say that we all want to see/hear it run.
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what the f**k is this bulls**t?!?!?! This is inexcusably unacceptable!

f**k that s**tbox, kill it with fire.
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Old 06-09-2017, 05:48 AM   #283
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i have everything to finish the fuel system, need to make a battery tray and run that one giant cable, and need to button up the 5.9. i need to pull the pump to replace the tappet cover, its leaking like all the rest so it will be replaced with a billet o-ring style cover. add and lock in the missing KDP, new front main, and new rear main. but the biggest roadblock to starting it is getting a flywheel, and with a dual disc clutch that will NOT be cheap.
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TJ: DD/street rod- 2" & high line, 6.0L/NV4500/D300, 37's
GMC: DD/Tow rig- 2008 2500HD
CJ-2A: Rat Rod- some day

Past
XJ's: - CheepBlue, Skunked, Dan's
JK: Salvage "flip"- Before, After
Quote:
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because when he's wheeling he's a perfectly normal person then a switch gets flipped and Jeeps start flying.
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Old 06-12-2017, 06:29 AM   #284
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IT'S ON!!!! and way easier then i expected too. 6 buddies lifted while i directed, set it right down onto the mounts. i had to trim a tiny 1 sq-in off the trans tunnel flange and slid all the bolts in. i was sure i had to trim firewall to get it on the first time, but i didn't. i will however have to trim it when i move the engine back like 4-6". will help with weight distribution a LOT, and get me rad clearance. no pictures full drop with the front clip b/c the tires do not yet fit inside the fenders. was close though.



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YJ: Trail rig/toy- 2" & SOA, 4.6L stroker/AX-15/D300, 36" IROK
TJ: DD/street rod- 2" & high line, 6.0L/NV4500/D300, 37's
GMC: DD/Tow rig- 2008 2500HD
CJ-2A: Rat Rod- some day

Past
XJ's: - CheepBlue, Skunked, Dan's
JK: Salvage "flip"- Before, After
Quote:
Originally Posted by wrath
because when he's wheeling he's a perfectly normal person then a switch gets flipped and Jeeps start flying.
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Old 06-12-2017, 07:17 AM   #285
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that's. awesome.

such a huge step forward when body and frame come back together, if even for a little bit. if you can move the engine far enough. back to run the mechanical fan.. so it. it'll save you a lot of questioning whether or not the e fans will cool sufficiently. i still haven't run the kaiser up to temp going down the road to see if it will cool properly. i think it will.. it's close to the same size rad as an early first gen..
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what the f**k is this bulls**t?!?!?! This is inexcusably unacceptable!

f**k that s**tbox, kill it with fire.
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Old 06-12-2017, 07:56 AM   #286
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When I did a v8 swap in my CJ I had fan clearance issues so I just put a pusher on the front side of the radiator.

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Old 06-12-2017, 10:00 AM   #287
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so i'll probably move the engine back as far as i can until i hit some "extra work". the further i push it back, the better balance i'll get
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TJ: DD/street rod- 2" & high line, 6.0L/NV4500/D300, 37's
GMC: DD/Tow rig- 2008 2500HD
CJ-2A: Rat Rod- some day

Past
XJ's: - CheepBlue, Skunked, Dan's
JK: Salvage "flip"- Before, After
Quote:
Originally Posted by wrath
because when he's wheeling he's a perfectly normal person then a switch gets flipped and Jeeps start flying.
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Old 06-12-2017, 10:16 AM   #288
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Biitchin!
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Old 07-09-2017, 09:33 PM   #289
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want me to come pick that thing up and finish it..?
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what the f**k is this bulls**t?!?!?! This is inexcusably unacceptable!

f**k that s**tbox, kill it with fire.
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Old 07-24-2017, 06:41 AM   #290
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ok, so finally got a chance to get back to the truck for a few days. i have the front clip mounts pretty much ready to go, just need a helping hand now. the upper mounts on the cab came off with the fenders, so they are being riveted back on, but i can't reach the washer to hold it in place and squeeze the tool. plus the clip is still bolted together, so i need hand lifting it onto the truck. hopefully tonight or tomorrow i can get it on there, hood and all.
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YJ: Trail rig/toy- 2" & SOA, 4.6L stroker/AX-15/D300, 36" IROK
TJ: DD/street rod- 2" & high line, 6.0L/NV4500/D300, 37's
GMC: DD/Tow rig- 2008 2500HD
CJ-2A: Rat Rod- some day

Past
XJ's: - CheepBlue, Skunked, Dan's
JK: Salvage "flip"- Before, After
Quote:
Originally Posted by wrath
because when he's wheeling he's a perfectly normal person then a switch gets flipped and Jeeps start flying.
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Old 07-31-2017, 07:28 AM   #291
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well the front clip is all bolted on, so that's the last we'll see of this project for a while. she gets loaded in the new enclosed and shipped off to my in-laws hopefully in the next 1-2 weeks. then even if i get a house soon that has a shop, i'll be setting up for a while.

i've been thinking recently thought that i need to go back to my original plan of more form than function. still able to tow and drive every day, but do the work to drop the cab in the dirt. i need to get the new wheels n tires on it, i really think it needs white walls, and the sizes they come in would mean i need to lift the suspension so i don't drag the oil pan. could also maybe move the cab back letting me move the engine CG that much further back behind the front wheels. i don't know, lots of time to ponder this ... i've even thought about selling the chassis and starting over with a custom frame.

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YJ: Trail rig/toy- 2" & SOA, 4.6L stroker/AX-15/D300, 36" IROK
TJ: DD/street rod- 2" & high line, 6.0L/NV4500/D300, 37's
GMC: DD/Tow rig- 2008 2500HD
CJ-2A: Rat Rod- some day

Past
XJ's: - CheepBlue, Skunked, Dan's
JK: Salvage "flip"- Before, After
Quote:
Originally Posted by wrath
because when he's wheeling he's a perfectly normal person then a switch gets flipped and Jeeps start flying.

Last edited by 6DoF; 07-31-2017 at 07:31 AM.
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Old 07-31-2017, 07:35 AM   #292
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How low does it sit now with the bags empty?
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Old 07-31-2017, 11:34 AM   #293
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Quote:
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How low does it sit now with the bags empty?
cab is about 4" off the ground i think at full dump. that picture is all down
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TJ: DD/street rod- 2" & high line, 6.0L/NV4500/D300, 37's
GMC: DD/Tow rig- 2008 2500HD
CJ-2A: Rat Rod- some day

Past
XJ's: - CheepBlue, Skunked, Dan's
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Quote:
Originally Posted by wrath
because when he's wheeling he's a perfectly normal person then a switch gets flipped and Jeeps start flying.
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Old 07-31-2017, 11:39 AM   #294
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the other options is a smaller white wall tire lowers the chassis by 1.5" ... so when i move the engine back i could also lift it by that amount to clear the ground.
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TJ: DD/street rod- 2" & high line, 6.0L/NV4500/D300, 37's
GMC: DD/Tow rig- 2008 2500HD
CJ-2A: Rat Rod- some day

Past
XJ's: - CheepBlue, Skunked, Dan's
JK: Salvage "flip"- Before, After
Quote:
Originally Posted by wrath
because when he's wheeling he's a perfectly normal person then a switch gets flipped and Jeeps start flying.
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Old 07-31-2017, 12:51 PM   #295
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What about just dropping the body on the frame?
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Old 07-31-2017, 12:55 PM   #296
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Quote:
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What about just dropping the body on the frame?
yeah, but then i'd have to make a full trans and drive shaft tunnel ... why i didn't to start, but thinking it might be worth it.
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TJ: DD/street rod- 2" & high line, 6.0L/NV4500/D300, 37's
GMC: DD/Tow rig- 2008 2500HD
CJ-2A: Rat Rod- some day

Past
XJ's: - CheepBlue, Skunked, Dan's
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Quote:
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because when he's wheeling he's a perfectly normal person then a switch gets flipped and Jeeps start flying.
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Old 07-31-2017, 02:53 PM   #297
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I guess what's more work, chassis or sheet metal. I don't think it looks bad dropped but if you want it to drag frame then sounds like you are in for some work
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Old 08-01-2017, 06:35 AM   #298
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biggest thing is i need to pick tires n wheels then build from there. just sux to be mothballing it now.
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TJ: DD/street rod- 2" & high line, 6.0L/NV4500/D300, 37's
GMC: DD/Tow rig- 2008 2500HD
CJ-2A: Rat Rod- some day

Past
XJ's: - CheepBlue, Skunked, Dan's
JK: Salvage "flip"- Before, After
Quote:
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because when he's wheeling he's a perfectly normal person then a switch gets flipped and Jeeps start flying.
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