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Old 08-06-2007, 08:41 AM   #36
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How much coin did you have to drop on that? Nice find.
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Old 08-06-2007, 08:54 AM   #37
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$5500.....pretty damn good considering what else I looked at.



Worst part about it is that it's from Hudson, WI....same town as James. I bought a cowfukker Jeep.
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Old 08-06-2007, 11:37 AM   #38
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It's never going to run again.
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Old 08-06-2007, 12:51 PM   #39
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Timmay
It's never going to run again.

I've got the nice new wiring harness sitting in the back ready to start routing/planning/installing. Unlike James, I have the willpower to deal with wiring BS, and my dad is sure to be helpful where I get stuck on it. It'll be a PITA as with any electrical system, but it WILL run. While unloading all the various crap I took a look at the carb for a few minutes and decided I really don't feel like dealing with that BS. I may be making a call to Howell before things go too much further

I've also been thinking about the suspension. By the time I get together a nice set of leafs, get em mounted, and put together a set of traction bars it'll be approaching the cost of a coil conversion. Might as well do it right the first time....


Oh lord....it's already getting outta hand.
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Old 08-06-2007, 01:00 PM   #40
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bbaXJ
Oh lord....it's already getting outta hand.
i called that one before you ever picked the thing up
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Old 08-06-2007, 01:07 PM   #41
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so much for saving up a down payment on the house, must be nice to live with your parents.
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Old 08-06-2007, 01:34 PM   #42
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jeepnski
i called that one before you ever picked the thing up
And I knew better than to ever deny it

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Originally Posted by zjwrekkr
so much for saving up a down payment on the house, must be nice to live with your parents.
Nah, I'll still be saving, just not as much and not as quickly. Between the market here and what I've learned recently, it won't be a problem. The housing market is crazy bad....foreclosures everywhere, costs dropping, etc, etc. I should have no trouble finding a house that'll suit my needs for $50k less than I would've several years ago. I've had quite a few friends getting places lately with little to no downpayment(and I'll still have a reasonable one) and prices still aren't bad at all. I've thought about all that and I'll still be ok.
I have 2 major justifications to myself for doing this. First is that it's my one big hobby and it's what I love to do. This is the best chance I'll probably ever have to do it, so I am. You only live once, might as well enjoy it....there are much worse things I could be doing with the money. Second is that most people graduate from college with a sh1tbox car, get a job, and buy a new car. I got a nice truck while in college, have it almost paid off, and will continue driving it for a while. My 'new car' is a built up Jeep. It's my graduation present to myself....I feel like I earned it after all that work, it's within my means, it's what I love to do, so I'm doing it. Yeah, there are better ways I could be investing the money, but it's a hobby and a passion, not an investment. I do plan for it to be around for a LONG time though. I have every intention of having a rear childseat in this thing some day....teaching my kid to drive offroad in it, going on family trips to prime wheeling spots, etc.
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Old 08-06-2007, 03:26 PM   #43
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bbaXJ
:
I've also been thinking about the suspension. By the time I get together a nice set of leafs, get em mounted, and put together a set of traction bars it'll be approaching the cost of a coil conversion. Might as well do it right the first time....
Thats why i linked mine, by the time i got new rear springs, and a good traction bar, i was at the same price as the link set up. i used bushings at 1 end and used springs at the time to save money, but i was a poor college student at the time.
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Old 08-06-2007, 03:43 PM   #44
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Quote:
Originally Posted by VTJeepCJ84
Thats why i linked mine, by the time i got new rear springs, and a good traction bar, i was at the same price as the link set up. i used bushings at 1 end and used springs at the time to save money, but i was a poor college student at the time.
I'll probably use bushings at one end too....I don't really see a reason for Johnny Joints at both ends. There will be plenty of travel with one per link even for super flexy suspensions....I want mine nice and flexy, but I don't want anything ridiculous. Stability>Excessive travel
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Old 08-06-2007, 04:45 PM   #45
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having run it both ways, bushings at one end and heims at both, i see no noticable difference in flex, i did heims at both ends mostly for ease of adjustailty. bushings should take some of the vibrations out too, my jeep is a bad platform to test that theory on. i'd go bushings on one end on something that is going to be driven on the road a lot.
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Old 08-06-2007, 04:57 PM   #46
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Exactly my reasoning. The cheaper cost is just an added bonus. I figure I'll do fixed poly bushings at one end of each link, and forged Johnny Joints with shanks at the other end. Of course as with anything on this build it's subject to change, but that's a given.

My shifter came today. B&M Starshifter. Got it brand new for $100 shipped so I couldn't pass that up. I love hammerin through the gears on those things without worrying about hitting the lever too far. Put one in the Chevelle 6+ years ago and have been dying to put em in a rig ever since....but both I've had since have electronic sh1t.
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Old 08-06-2007, 05:00 PM   #47
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Oh, and I'm sad cuz neither Phat nor Dub have commented on my new acquisition.











Asssholes
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Old 08-06-2007, 05:30 PM   #48
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:emo:
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Old 08-06-2007, 05:50 PM   #49
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:slitswristsforattention:
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Old 08-06-2007, 09:17 PM   #50
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i went to pick up the wiring harness for my jeep in hopes of working on it this weekend.

wrong one. guy couldn't find the right one in the computer.




it will probably end up costing over 600 dollars for the wiring...the 130 dollar one was a total of 4 wires.
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Old 08-06-2007, 09:29 PM   #51
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Want the stock one from my Scrambler? $500 to your door
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Old 08-07-2007, 02:15 PM   #52
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i dont know how i missed this

looks like its gonna be a sweet project sean
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Old 08-07-2007, 02:57 PM   #53
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check these dude

http://suicidedoors.com/Adjustable4-...erkFitting.php

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Old 08-07-2007, 03:01 PM   #54
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jeepnski
Not bad....although I'm contemplating just going for adjustable on one end since I've seen quite a few peoples' links loosen up from jam nuts loosening, tires rubbing the arm and causing it to loosen up the nuts, etc. Still plenty of time to decide what to do. Those would even work great for the axle end of traction bars to account for pinion angle and slight wheelbase changes.
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Old 08-07-2007, 04:52 PM   #55
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just saw this thread, and I have to say, I'm VERY impressed! Nice find...

Gosh...if only I could have a Scramblor! :sigh: one of these days.....DAMN WEDDING!
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Old 08-07-2007, 07:29 PM   #56
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bbaXJ
Not bad....although I'm contemplating just going for adjustable on one end since I've seen quite a few peoples' links loosen up from jam nuts loosening, tires rubbing the arm and causing it to loosen up the nuts, etc. Still plenty of time to decide what to do. Those would even work great for the axle end of traction bars to account for pinion angle and slight wheelbase changes.
orly? Where do you think he got that link.
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Old 08-07-2007, 08:58 PM   #57
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That's what TimmayPhab is usin, eh? Guess I'll scratch that idea. I don't wanna share any parts with Captain Janksalot.
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Old 08-07-2007, 09:48 PM   #58
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Actually just the bushing and sleeve kit. I don't need no adjustments.
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Old 08-07-2007, 10:04 PM   #59
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of course not. timmay phab good.
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Old 08-07-2007, 10:51 PM   #60
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Quote:
Originally Posted by xj_man_646
of course not. timmay phab good.
Wanna come over this weekend and help me wire the Jeep?


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Old 08-08-2007, 10:14 PM   #61
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I've still been playing with Scrambler ideas and coming up with more sh1t. I'm debating whether or not to go as big as 41s. I plan to drive this thing on the street a lot and want it to be enjoyable, but I'm worried that'll be too far...but I do want it big, just cuz I can. Let's face it, stock Scramblers look downright goofy. Once on 35s they start lookin cool. I could keep it mild on 35s and have it look pretty good, throw 37s or 38s on it and have it look really good and beasty, or go all the way to 41s and have a just plain huge Scrambler that looks badasss but may sacrifice driveability.
I had a few pics of the Scrambler I originally tried to buy, which is actually the one that made me decide to get one. I believe it's running SOA with 4" leafs out back and 2" up front. It's too tall for 35s, but still looks damn good. Anyway, I took those pics, figured out the ratio of 35s to 41s, and did a couple halfasss chops just to see how it'd look at that height with those tires. Figured I'd post em here for sh1ts and giggles. Don't bother reminding me they're horrible chops, I did em in 2 minutes with Microsoft Paint

How it looks now:

My rendition:


How it looks now:

My rendition:


Whadya think?
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Old 08-08-2007, 10:21 PM   #62
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unless you are going to chop the living h*ll out of it with the sawzall it looks like a bad idea.
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Old 08-08-2007, 10:27 PM   #63
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i think 37-38's would be a good comprimise. still be damn cabable. that tire size with the same amount of lift that matt's jeep has i think would be good.
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Old 08-08-2007, 10:27 PM   #64
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The front will become tube fenders that I plan to build for high clearance and the rear will be cut to the body line just outside the flare.
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Old 08-08-2007, 10:42 PM   #65
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Here's a nice one on 39.5 IROKs.....I think it looks badasss, and would obviously function just as well if built right.


I'll be going 1 tons on this thing(why spend the money on axles twice?), and 37s or 38s would be underkill....not that it wouldn't work. Just for reference, 37x12.5R17 IROK radials weigh 81 lbs, 41x14.5R17s weigh 101 lbs, 38x14.5R16 Toyo MTs weigh 98 lbs, etc. I dunno. If I don't go big I'll wish I had and end up spending extra money to get there.....but that's certainly not the most logical way to do things. But the whole point of this is a cool toy, not a logical DD or something. Just don't wanna build it so big that I don't like driving it, or that I can't get in and out in work clothes.
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Old 08-09-2007, 07:34 AM   #66
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go 39.5 iroks like vetteboy, i think is a decent compromise.
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Old 08-09-2007, 07:36 AM   #67
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bbaXJ
Here's a nice one on 39.5 IROKs.....I think it looks badasss, and would obviously function just as well if built right.
Nice spare.
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Old 08-09-2007, 08:23 AM   #68
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I know you want to get rid of the hardtop, but I can tell you that with the fiberglass body, they really help with keeping things ridged and help eliminate the feeling that the body is going to fall apart on you.
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Old 08-09-2007, 08:55 AM   #69
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bbaXJ
Wanna come over this weekend and help me wire the Jeep?


sure, if you pay for my fuel, ferry cost, food, and i get a place to sleep
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Old 08-09-2007, 09:14 AM   #70
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Dennis
I know you want to get rid of the hardtop, but I can tell you that with the fiberglass body, they really help with keeping things ridged and help eliminate the feeling that the body is going to fall apart on you.
The top is going away....and it will be getting a serious cage which will be tied into the frame and do a ton to stiffen things up. Rigidity won't be a problem for this thing. It'll still have a halfcab hardtop when the weather is bad.

Quote:
Originally Posted by xj_man_646
sure, if you pay for my fuel, ferry cost, food, and i get a place to sleep
Or I could walk out to the garage, cut 5 random wires in half, piss down the intake, pull the oilpan and a maincap to check the main bearings, see exposed copper, decide to run it anyway, then never have it run again. First I should remove .018" of shims from the front end just cuz I don't feel like running them. It'd be cheaper than having you come out but just as productive.
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Last edited by bbaCJ8; 08-09-2007 at 09:18 AM.
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