Project Scrambled - Page 3

COXJ94 · 08-09-2007, 09:18 AM

Are you going to try and find the 'SCRAMBLER' decals for the hood?

I would

Again, nice find

bbaCJ8 · 08-09-2007, 09:19 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by COXJ94

Are you going to try and find the 'SCRAMBLER' decals for the hood?

I would

Again, nice find

Negatory. I know where I could get em, but don't really have much desire to run em.

myjeepsbigger · 08-09-2007, 09:48 AM

Sounds like a good plan, Sean. Couple things I would recommend and/or confirm what other's have said...I wouldn't go much less than 39.5's. That's what I'm running now and in the types of trails that we (and you) run....anything else is gonna make the diffs of the one-ton's act like moldboard plows. Iroks DIG in the mud/sand and will plant you on your axles in a hurry. I love 'em!

Second thing, I think you're going to be way ahead financially by doing the coils now. Good thinking. But you may want to look at cheating that rear axle back a little to improve your departure angle. Just my 2 cents, but I love being able to drop off a ledge without hanging the body off it.

Dennis · 08-09-2007, 09:55 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by bbaXJ

The top is going away....and it will be getting a serious cage which will be tied into the frame and do a ton to stiffen things up. Rigidity won't be a problem for this thing. It'll still have a halfcab hardtop when the weather is bad.

The frame will be fine, but the body will feel like it is flopping all over the place. Atleast our CJ-5's sure does. Put the hard top on in the winter and it feels solid. Anyhow, if you find the right place to advertise you can get almost your full purchase price back on that Hardtop.

JeepXJ3 · 08-09-2007, 10:07 AM

bbaCJ8 · 08-09-2007, 10:10 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by myjeepsbigger

Sounds like a good plan, Sean. Couple things I would recommend and/or confirm what other's have said...I wouldn't go much less than 39.5's. That's what I'm running now and in the types of trails that we (and you) run....anything else is gonna make the diffs of the one-ton's act like moldboard plows. Iroks DIG in the mud/sand and will plant you on your axles in a hurry. I love 'em!

Second thing, I think you're going to be way ahead financially by doing the coils now. Good thinking. But you may want to look at cheating that rear axle back a little to improve your departure angle. Just my 2 cents, but I love being able to drop off a ledge without hanging the body off it.

Yeah I'm sure I'll end up going with the 41s. Not much reason not to at this point. I don't plan to run any trails as tight as the ones you guys do for now just cuz I wanna keep it nice for a while. That's all subject to change once it's together and I get some body armor...but I'm sure you know that.
The rear axle might move back a little, I'm not sure. I'll have to take another look at the fuel tank mounting to see how much that can move without exposing it too bad. I plan to tie in some guards on and below the body so that even if I do slam it down it won't do more than scratch some paint.

Quote:

Originally Posted by Dennis

The frame will be fine, but the body will feel like it is flopping all over the place. Atleast our CJ-5's sure does. Put the hard top on in the winter and it feels solid. Anyhow, if you find the right place to advertise you can get almost your full purchase price back on that Hardtop.

I know the frame will be fine, I was talking about the body. The cage will be tied through the body into the frame. I'll tie it in as many points as I can elsewhere too just to stiffen things up. This body is pretty damn thick.....I was surprised and impressed with how solid it is, especially compared to an older model glass body I looked at. Doesn't seem flimsy at all.
I can't see getting anywhere near my purchase price back on that top....that's just plain nuts. Considering you can get a new full hardtop for $1900 I don't see how a used one could pull more than half that. This one is in nice shape, but not perfect. Combine that with the hassle of shipped something this size and I'd rather just trade someone local. I've probably actually got it taken care of already. There's a guy about 2 hours from here who's always buying and selling CJs and Scramblers....he's a big Scrambler fanatic. He's gonna trade me a halfcab hardtop, a bulkhead, and a bunch of miscellaneous parts I need for my full hardtop. Works for me. I get what I want and it saves me a bunch of trouble.

myjeepsbigger · 08-09-2007, 10:22 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Jason Dietz

OH

F*CK

YEAH!!!

That is bada$$!!!!!

(except the rear fender openings....not sold on that)

RuggedJeep · 08-09-2007, 11:00 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by bbaXJ

Here's a nice one on 39.5 IROKs.....I think it looks badasss, and would obviously function just as well if built right.

That CJ was stolen the day after those rear fenders were built.

98 Xj of Death · 08-09-2007, 11:23 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by RuggedJeep

That CJ was stolen the day after those rear fenders were built.

hopefully the thief got a flat tire

bbaCJ8 · 08-09-2007, 11:56 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by 98 Xj of Death

hopefully the thief got a flat tire

No, the thief smashed it into a brick wall at like 40mph and destroyed the whole front half of the rig

Quote:

Originally Posted by myjeepsbigger

OH

F*CK

YEAH!!!

That is bada$$!!!!!

(except the rear fender openings....not sold on that)

Exactly what I said when I first saw it. Mine will be along those lines, but more business and less bling/flare.

RuggedJeep · 08-09-2007, 11:57 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by bbaXJ

No, the thief smashed it into a brick wall at like 40mph and destroyed the whole front half of the rig

Exactly what I said when I first saw it. Mine will be along those lines, but more business and less bling/flare.

yup, it was found shortly after it was stolen.

bbaCJ8 · 08-09-2007, 01:09 PM

Yeah that sucks big time....but sweet Jeep for sure.

Dennis · 08-09-2007, 01:27 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by bbaXJ

I know the frame will be fine, I was talking about the body. The cage will be tied through the body into the frame. I'll tie it in as many points as I can elsewhere too just to stiffen things up. This body is pretty damn thick.....I was surprised and impressed with how solid it is, especially compared to an older model glass body I looked at. Doesn't seem flimsy at all.

bbaCJ8 · 08-09-2007, 01:35 PM

I'm sure I'll be singing a different tune once I drag it along a tree or slam it down on a rock....but that just means it's time to upgrade, or cut sh1t off.

xj_man_646 · 08-09-2007, 02:51 PM

you don't know sh1t about my work do you sean...there was no copper showing..just worn to spec...f-it. i wanted a stroker anyways down the line. i only removed .008 of shims (it was loose anyways, and is running at .018 backlash right now...i'll fix it when i go to 4.88), and i did not pee down my intake.

Timmay · 08-09-2007, 03:07 PM

You guys are weak. I pulled .008 out of my pinion preload at camp and it's in spec now. No, I didn't measure them at all. Me and Brian did the flick-the-shim test and determined the thickness that way.

That being said, the axle is sitting on stands right now (im in the shop) and the backlash reads at .005 with 23 inch lbs of pinion preload. I don't know how the fukk I did that after 6 beers in the dark, laying in the dirt, next to a raging bonfire. I bolted the cover back on, retorqued the pinion nut, and i'm going to keep running it once I fix the bushing.

It's a tractor Sean. They run regardless. James' isn't a DD anymore so who the fukk cares if something breaks due to time and money constraints. Nothing wrong with trying to run it and realizing you just need to do it over the right way. Sh11ttttt I say that like it's happened to me before or something.

VTJeepCJ84 · 08-09-2007, 03:41 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Timmay

It's a tractor Sean...

I drove my first 4.2 about 700 miles with the rods and/or crank knocking horribly, blowing/burning oil about 1.5qts an hour home from Tech once, probably would have made it home if the Jacobs coil hadn't sh1t the bed. that was after driving it around town and wheeling it for a month and a half. it had no balls but it was pretty bullet proof.

myjeepsbigger · 08-09-2007, 04:23 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Timmay

You guys are weak. I pulled .008 out of my pinion preload at camp and it's in spec now. No, I didn't measure them at all. Me and Brian did the flick-the-shim test and determined the thickness that way.

That being said, the axle is sitting on stands right now (im in the shop) and the backlash reads at .005 with 23 inch lbs of pinion preload. I don't know how the fukk I did that after 6 beers in the dark, laying in the dirt, next to a raging bonfire. I bolted the cover back on, retorqued the pinion nut, and i'm going to keep running it once I fix the bushing.

It's a tractor Sean. They run regardless. James' isn't a DD anymore so who the fukk cares if something breaks due to time and money constraints. Nothing wrong with trying to run it and realizing you just need to do it over the right way. Sh11ttttt I say that like it's happened to me before or something.

My rear Sterling pinion nut is torqued to whatever max torque Dewalt designed into their 1/2" electric impacts.

bbaCJ8 · 08-09-2007, 05:24 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Timmay

You guys are weak. I pulled .008 out of my pinion preload at camp and it's in spec now. No, I didn't measure them at all. Me and Brian did the flick-the-shim test and determined the thickness that way.

That being said, the axle is sitting on stands right now (im in the shop) and the backlash reads at .005 with 23 inch lbs of pinion preload. I don't know how the fukk I did that after 6 beers in the dark, laying in the dirt, next to a raging bonfire. I bolted the cover back on, retorqued the pinion nut, and i'm going to keep running it once I fix the bushing.

It's a tractor Sean. They run regardless. James' isn't a DD anymore so who the fukk cares if something breaks due to time and money constraints. Nothing wrong with trying to run it and realizing you just need to do it over the right way. Sh11ttttt I say that like it's happened to me before or something.

Axle setup advice from Timmay. Noted, then disregarded.

Yeah it's a tractor.....4.0s are tough as fukk....but that doesn't mean I can't give him sh1t for it. He pulled it apart to make sure it was still in good shape, it was questionable at best, but he ran it anyway. Why even pull it apart?

These were sort of inside jokes at our house last year, and apparently it's become a touchy subject for ole cowfukker. I got an angry response on here and an angry text message. He'd be really mad if he knew what I did to his little sister.

bbaCJ8 · 08-09-2007, 07:43 PM

I was just outside fukkin around with the thing a little bit....figured I'd see how easily it turns over. I've seen completely locked motors come back to life reasonably well before, but I didn't want that. Start pullin the crank pulley off to better access the harmonic balancer bolt. Got to the second bolt and when to loosen it and the crank startin turning. I'd say she's alright.

I'm still undecided how deep I'll go in the motor before I get her runnin. I may just change the oil, get a little in the cylinders, throw on a TBI kit and let er rip. Or I may pull the heads, check out the pistons and cylinders, and throw in a meaner bumpstick for a nice lope. Or I may pull the whole thing out and give it a full rebuild. Supposedly it had a rebuild not too long ago.....it sure looks like it on the outside, but that doesn't mean much. I doubt I'll do the full rebuild right now. I'll save it for a few years down the road and go all out with a pretty nice performance motor build. If I go to run it now and it sucks, then I guess it'll get a rebuild, but at this point it should be fine and I'd prefer to focus my money elsewhere.

Timmay · 08-09-2007, 07:53 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by bbaXJ

He'd be really mad if he knew what I did to his little sister.

Hoooooooooooooooe snap.

pics?

I'd run your motor. If you pull it apart you might see something you don't like and have to rebuild it. Or, you'd put it back together and either A) It'll never run again and you'd start fukking cows or B) You'll always be thinking about what you saw and a month later it'll get torn down and rebuilt because like myself, you are anal about this sh1t. Or at least are e-anal like Vette.

HotSEXJ · 08-09-2007, 08:15 PM

great pick sean!

-Hunter

bbaCJ8 · 08-09-2007, 08:25 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Timmay

Hoooooooooooooooe snap.

pics?

I'd run your motor. If you pull it apart you might see something you don't like and have to rebuild it. Or, you'd put it back together and either A) It'll never run again and you'd start fukking cows or B) You'll always be thinking about what you saw and a month later it'll get torn down and rebuilt because like myself, you are anal about this sh1t. Or at least are e-anal like Vette.

I don't think the things I did to her are legal in most states.....so no pics. Not online anyway

What you said on the motor is pretty much my reasoning. I don't wanna spend the money on anything major on it right now, so I won't. If it runs like sh1t or is worn out then I'll do it, but otherwise I'll probably just give it a shot. In a few years it'll pass the 1hp per cubic inch mark, plus maybe some forced induction. We'll see. Since the coils are probably gonna happen sooner than later I'll need something to do once I get bored.

Speaking of coils, anybody got a compressed measurement for XJ coils? Whichever ones you're running is fine.....just let me know if they're stock, lift, etc.

Quote:

Originally Posted by HotSEXJ

great pick sean!

-Hunter

Thanks

I'm surprised you didn't tell me to leave it white. Honestly I'd spray bomb primer on it before I'd leave it white.

Timmay · 08-09-2007, 08:47 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by bbaXJ

Speaking of coils, anybody got a compressed measurement for XJ leafs? Whichever ones you're running is fine.....just let me know if they're stock, lift, etc.

What exactly are you looking for here? I can measure from like the centerline of the bolts to the bottom leaf at the center pin. Is that what you want?

Mine are S10 packs + overload and XJ main. Should be around 4" of lift in them.

Wally · 08-09-2007, 08:57 PM

Looks great, i "almost" bought a scrambler a couple weeks ago to put my new driveline in, but the more i thought about it, for me i wanted less body, but for a rig that'll be driven on the road regularly, those are just fawking BAD A$$$ Nice Score

Feel free to pm with any questions on the dodge/chevy 60 thing, i learned my lesson the hardway on that one

bbaCJ8 · 08-09-2007, 09:38 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Timmay

What exactly are you looking for here? I can measure from like the centerline of the bolts to the bottom leaf at the center pin. Is that what you want?

Mine are S10 packs + overload and XJ main. Should be around 4" of lift in them.

Ah sh1t I meant coils. My bad. XJ coils

Quote:

Originally Posted by Wally

Looks great, i "almost" bought a scrambler a couple weeks ago to put my new driveline in, but the more i thought about it, for me i wanted less body, but for a rig that'll be driven on the road regularly, those are just fawking BAD A$$$ Nice Score

Feel free to pm with any questions on the dodge/chevy 60 thing, i learned my lesson the hardway on that one

Yeah the extra body will definitely be a disadvantage on tight trails, especially being fiberglass, but I figured it'd work damn well for what I'll be doing....for now at least.

What did you learn with the Dodge/Chevy 60 thing? I imagine for you the low pinion caused problems, but anything else you didn't like? External vs internal hubs, etc. I plan to go SRW cuz DRW would just be too fukkin wide. I'm thinkin H2 wheels and 41x14.5 Iroks should fit the bill nicely. Got any pics of your rig back when you ran the H2s handy? Some various angles would be nice

If you don't mind listing off random do's and don'ts, likes and dislikes about the front 60s that'd be cool. I've done some research, read through the Pirate 60 bible, etc. It's just a matter of getting other sh1t done first, then saving up a little and hopefully finding a good deal. Rear will be 14 bolt, so that's pretty self explanatory.

Timmay · 08-09-2007, 09:43 PM

I could do a coil measurement when it goes back together for ya.

bbaCJ8 · 08-09-2007, 09:44 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Timmay

I could do a coil measurement when it goes back together for ya.

Sounds good

Are yours 4.5", or 3"?

VTJeepCJ84 · 08-09-2007, 09:47 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by bbaXJ

Ah sh1t I meant coils. My bad. XJ coils

my stock cherokee coils were 12" at ride, and my HD stock replacement coils were 13" in the back of my jeep.

nblehm · 08-09-2007, 09:50 PM

compressed or with weight on em? I run stock xj's in the rear of mine and with weight on them they sat at 13" with the ax-15 and 231 and 12" with the t-18 and stak. I run 4.5" rough country xj coils in the front and they are somewhere around 16-18" if I remember right. best part about those is they are super long so they compress a good bit so the coils stays seated longer

bbaCJ8 · 08-09-2007, 10:41 PM

With weight on em....compressed wouldn't help me much, I just need to get a baseline for what coils to use for the height I decide on, even though I'll have a couple inches of adjustability built in. I've got quite a ways to go before that point, but it can't hurt to find out now.

Timmay · 08-09-2007, 11:33 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by bbaXJ

Sounds good

Are yours 4.5", or 3"?

3" Rough Cooters.

I love em, fukk the haters.

bbaCJ8 · 08-10-2007, 06:22 AM

I'll probably go Rusty's cuz they're cheap and I've had excellent experience with them. They're like $100/pr

nblehm · 08-10-2007, 07:11 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by bbaXJ

With weight on em....compressed wouldn't help me much, I just need to get a baseline for what coils to use for the height I decide on, even though I'll have a couple inches of adjustability built in. I've got quite a ways to go before that point, but it can't hurt to find out now.

thats what I was figuring but had to ask

bbaCJ8 · 08-10-2007, 08:08 AM

Scrambler 5500

Seats 300
Gauges 300
Steering Wheel 80
Misc. Interior 200
Shifter 150
Tires 1600
Wheels 400
Front axle 2500
Rear axle 1500
Paint/Body 1000
Steel 1000
Cage 800
Fenders/Flares 150
Stereo 200
Steering 600
Steering shaft 250
Fuel injection 1200
Coils 250
Shocks 150
Bushings 120
Flex Joints 320
Tube Inserts 100
Driveshafts 600
Hydro assist 500

Misc. 500

Sum: 20270

This is gonna hurt.....and that's not even counting miscellaneous nuts, bolts, random parts to make it run, probably a ton more money in steel and tube, etc, etc. Fuuuuuuukk

08-09-2007, 09:18 AM	#71
COXJ94 pics of yur bewbers Join Date: Feb 2005 Location: Calgary, AB, Canada Posts: 3,002	Are you going to try and find the 'SCRAMBLER' decals for the hood? I would Again, nice find __________________

08-09-2007, 09:48 AM	#73
myjeepsbigger ~ Jitterbug ~ Join Date: Feb 2003 Location: MyJeepsLand, IL Posts: 6,353	Sounds like a good plan, Sean. Couple things I would recommend and/or confirm what other's have said...I wouldn't go much less than 39.5's. That's what I'm running now and in the types of trails that we (and you) run....anything else is gonna make the diffs of the one-ton's act like moldboard plows. Iroks DIG in the mud/sand and will plant you on your axles in a hurry. I love 'em! Second thing, I think you're going to be way ahead financially by doing the coils now. Good thinking. But you may want to look at cheating that rear axle back a little to improve your departure angle. Just my 2 cents, but I love being able to drop off a ledge without hanging the body off it. __________________ Live now, Pay later.

08-09-2007, 10:07 AM	#75
JeepXJ3 aka Jason Dietz Join Date: Sep 2002 Location: Pittscrawler, PA Posts: 8,692	__________________ “If a law is unjust, a man is not only right to disobey it, he is obligated to do so” – Thomas Jefferson "The bold effort the present bank had made to control the government are but premonitions of the fate that await the American people should they be deluded into a perpetuation of this institution or the establishment of another like it." - Andrew Jackson

08-09-2007, 01:09 PM	#82
bbaCJ8 old and boring Join Date: Mar 2003 Location: At the sh1tty end of Michigan Posts: 28,270	Yeah that sucks big time....but sweet Jeep for sure. __________________ Dogs have the right idea: if you can't chew it, play with it, or hump it......piss on it and walk away.

08-09-2007, 01:35 PM	#84
bbaCJ8 old and boring Join Date: Mar 2003 Location: At the sh1tty end of Michigan Posts: 28,270	I'm sure I'll be singing a different tune once I drag it along a tree or slam it down on a rock....but that just means it's time to upgrade, or cut sh1t off. __________________ Dogs have the right idea: if you can't chew it, play with it, or hump it......piss on it and walk away.

08-09-2007, 03:07 PM	#86
Timmay Flux Core Pro Join Date: May 2004 Location: NJ/PA Posts: 18,593	You guys are weak. I pulled .008 out of my pinion preload at camp and it's in spec now. No, I didn't measure them at all. Me and Brian did the flick-the-shim test and determined the thickness that way. That being said, the axle is sitting on stands right now (im in the shop) and the backlash reads at .005 with 23 inch lbs of pinion preload. I don't know how the fukk I did that after 6 beers in the dark, laying in the dirt, next to a raging bonfire. I bolted the cover back on, retorqued the pinion nut, and i'm going to keep running it once I fix the bushing. It's a tractor Sean. They run regardless. James' isn't a DD anymore so who the fukk cares if something breaks due to time and money constraints. Nothing wrong with trying to run it and realizing you just need to do it over the right way. Sh11ttttt I say that like it's happened to me before or something. __________________ Tim Diekmann Liquid Iron Industries tim@liquidironindustries.com http://www.LiquidIronIndustries.com (856)-336-2639 '87 YJ turbo Comp/Race buggy in the works '00 1/2 of a 1 ton XJ '03 3/4 ton Cummity Cummins "The Black Knight" '03 KTM 450 - DD

08-09-2007, 07:43 PM	#90
bbaCJ8 old and boring Join Date: Mar 2003 Location: At the sh1tty end of Michigan Posts: 28,270	I was just outside fukkin around with the thing a little bit....figured I'd see how easily it turns over. I've seen completely locked motors come back to life reasonably well before, but I didn't want that. Start pullin the crank pulley off to better access the harmonic balancer bolt. Got to the second bolt and when to loosen it and the crank startin turning. I'd say she's alright. I'm still undecided how deep I'll go in the motor before I get her runnin. I may just change the oil, get a little in the cylinders, throw on a TBI kit and let er rip. Or I may pull the heads, check out the pistons and cylinders, and throw in a meaner bumpstick for a nice lope. Or I may pull the whole thing out and give it a full rebuild. Supposedly it had a rebuild not too long ago.....it sure looks like it on the outside, but that doesn't mean much. I doubt I'll do the full rebuild right now. I'll save it for a few years down the road and go all out with a pretty nice performance motor build. If I go to run it now and it sucks, then I guess it'll get a rebuild, but at this point it should be fine and I'd prefer to focus my money elsewhere. __________________ Dogs have the right idea: if you can't chew it, play with it, or hump it......piss on it and walk away.

08-09-2007, 08:15 PM	#92
HotSEXJ R.I.P. SeXJ Join Date: Jan 2003 Location: Crawlmonwealth of Virginia Posts: 12,229	great pick sean! -Hunter __________________ Ever heard of intellectual arrogance? My Music Review Blog Of course you haven't. My YouTube Channel

08-09-2007, 08:57 PM	#95
Wally 6.2mi from Billings Join Date: Jul 2004 Location: Grand Junction, CO Posts: 2,521	Looks great, i "almost" bought a scrambler a couple weeks ago to put my new driveline in, but the more i thought about it, for me i wanted less body, but for a rig that'll be driven on the road regularly, those are just fawking BAD A$$$ Nice Score Feel free to pm with any questions on the dodge/chevy 60 thing, i learned my lesson the hardway on that one __________________ Old Rig - 1 Ton YJ on 40's New Rig - 1 ton 6.0L TJ on 40's Wife's Rig - 1/2 ton YJ on 37's 2002 F350 7.3L Power Stroke CC LB 6sp SRW 4x4 Tow Rig

08-09-2007, 09:43 PM	#97
Timmay Flux Core Pro Join Date: May 2004 Location: NJ/PA Posts: 18,593	I could do a coil measurement when it goes back together for ya. __________________ Tim Diekmann Liquid Iron Industries tim@liquidironindustries.com http://www.LiquidIronIndustries.com (856)-336-2639 '87 YJ turbo Comp/Race buggy in the works '00 1/2 of a 1 ton XJ '03 3/4 ton Cummity Cummins "The Black Knight" '03 KTM 450 - DD

08-09-2007, 09:50 PM	#100
nblehm resident emo Join Date: Feb 2004 Location: Highlands Ranch Posts: 20,116	compressed or with weight on em? I run stock xj's in the rear of mine and with weight on them they sat at 13" with the ax-15 and 231 and 12" with the t-18 and stak. I run 4.5" rough country xj coils in the front and they are somewhere around 16-18" if I remember right. best part about those is they are super long so they compress a good bit so the coils stays seated longer __________________

08-09-2007, 10:41 PM	#101
bbaCJ8 old and boring Join Date: Mar 2003 Location: At the sh1tty end of Michigan Posts: 28,270	With weight on em....compressed wouldn't help me much, I just need to get a baseline for what coils to use for the height I decide on, even though I'll have a couple inches of adjustability built in. I've got quite a ways to go before that point, but it can't hurt to find out now. __________________ Dogs have the right idea: if you can't chew it, play with it, or hump it......piss on it and walk away.

08-10-2007, 06:22 AM	#103
bbaCJ8 old and boring Join Date: Mar 2003 Location: At the sh1tty end of Michigan Posts: 28,270	I'll probably go Rusty's cuz they're cheap and I've had excellent experience with them. They're like $100/pr __________________ Dogs have the right idea: if you can't chew it, play with it, or hump it......piss on it and walk away.

08-10-2007, 08:08 AM	#105
bbaCJ8 old and boring Join Date: Mar 2003 Location: At the sh1tty end of Michigan Posts: 28,270	Scrambler 5500 Seats 300 Gauges 300 Steering Wheel 80 Misc. Interior 200 Shifter 150 Tires 1600 Wheels 400 Front axle 2500 Rear axle 1500 Paint/Body 1000 Steel 1000 Cage 800 Fenders/Flares 150 Stereo 200 Steering 600 Steering shaft 250 Fuel injection 1200 Coils 250 Shocks 150 Bushings 120 Flex Joints 320 Tube Inserts 100 Driveshafts 600 Hydro assist 500 Misc. 500 Sum: 20270 This is gonna hurt.....and that's not even counting miscellaneous nuts, bolts, random parts to make it run, probably a ton more money in steel and tube, etc, etc. Fuuuuuuukk __________________ Dogs have the right idea: if you can't chew it, play with it, or hump it......piss on it and walk away.